Journal
Notes from the valleys: hut manners, the best weeks for larches, which way round the Sella Ronda. Written by the planners, checked on the ground.
Rifugio manners: what nobody tells you before your first night
Boots off at the door, dinner at seven, lights out at ten, and why you should never take the last bunk by the window. A first-timer’s guide to life in a mountain hut.
Read the guide
Where to watch the mountains turn pink
Six terraces, two huts and one bus stop where the enrosadira is worth planning a day around.
Sella Ronda: clockwise or anticlockwise?
Orange or green signs, more lifts or more pistes, and the timing that gets you home before the last chairlift.
Larches, Törggelen and the quietest month
Why October is our favorite secret: gold forests, chestnuts and new wine, and no queues anywhere.
Packing for a hut week: less than you think
The 7 kg list we give every Alta Via walker, and the three things people always wish they had brought.
Ladin: the language of the valleys around the Sella
Bun dé, grazia and the place names on the signs: a short guide to the oldest language in the Dolomites.
Your first via ferrata, step by step
What the first ladder feels like, what the guide checks before you clip in, and why everyone grins at the top.
Val di Funes in winter, without skis
The church in the meadow, the farm with the best strudel and a sledging run that ends at a hut.
The huts we book first every January
Seven rifugi that fill within days of opening their bookings, and why each is worth the alarm clock.
One letter each season
When the huts open, when the larches turn, when the first lift runs. Four emails a year, nothing else.
You're on the list
The next letter goes out when the season turns. This is a concept site, so nothing was stored.